Eating Sand
Kaneohe Marine Base was about five miles north. We got to know it a bit as it has a wicked body surfing beach. We acquired permits to get on base and went frequently. There’s a quick drop off with some sizable waves pounding the shore. And frequently me.
Between watching Extreme Surfing movies and being derma brazed by wet, gritty sand, I had a recurring nightmare: I stand at the shoreline and just now notice the incoming wave set sucked the sand dry and is turning into a wall of water coming right at me, growing taller and taller as it nears.
I have waited too long and am gonna eat some sand for sure.

Comments
Post a Comment