Laird Hamilton interview "Off Camera" with Sam Jones

Laird Hamilton is a big wave kind of guy who surfs monster waves and invents incredible water sports equipment. He is blessed with good looks and a muscular build that just shouts "surfer"; he tosses sun-streaked blond tresses across perfectly tanned skin to great effect.  This guy is fabulous at 50 - which, in his case, truly is the new 30.

He talks about coming to the realization of human limitations to the size of rideable waves, (and if you've seen footage of some of the bad boys he's ridden, you know this already.)   This segues into a  desire to design equipment to surpass what's possible now into catching that next level uber-monster wave, (Gotta have the right equipment.  Flash to worm-rings and navigating a giant worm across the vast deserts of Dune, oh thank you, Frank Herbert.) 

But back to the water.  I watched Bill Hamilton's, (his father,) surfing movies during the 70s at the Aikahi Theatre, (followed by drinks at Pinky's Palace - whose talented house band sound could double for America or rocker Elton John.  America performed at tiny Andrews Ampitheatre at UH, a spot where I often studyied and I went to that performance.  Magical.)  Footage of those ginormous waves gave me nightmares. Literally. My Kaneohe Marine Base Pass surfaced (har) recently.  This was my ticket past an armed military inspection post to a brutal pounding kind of beach; exceedingly steep and short drop off with tall waves able to catch me and roil sand into every orifice of this body.  It was terrifying.  It was exhilirating.  There was no perfect blend of the two.  Damn, I ate a lot of sand, experienced a few near-drowning experiences, and had any illusions of control shattered.

So I say to Laird Hamilton: It's all yours bud.  I'm all about river swimming. 





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